Text and photos by: Carlos Álvarez Álvarez
Rwanda, nestled in the heart of Africa and often referred to as le pays des mille collines (the land of a thousand hills), still echoes with the harrowing memories of the 1994 genocide. Yet, over two decades later, this small but densely populated nation has transformed into a safe, stable country—an ideal destination to explore breathtaking landscapes and wildlife now protected in its national parks. Encountering Rwanda’s majestic mountain gorillas is an unmatched experience—arguably one of the most powerful encounters with the natural world.
Rwanda is an agricultural country with fertile land, and tourism has become central to its economy. In the northwest, in the Great Lakes region, lies what is perhaps the most spectacular of Rwanda’s three national parks: Volcanoes National Park, home to the mountain gorillas that live deep within tropical forests and towering bamboo groves. These forests stretch across the Virunga Mountains, a volcanic range—with peaks like Mount Karisimbi rising over 4,000 meters above sea level—that spans Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of Congo, and Uganda.
Only these three countries host half of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas—around 900 individuals—and offer as their main attraction a guided visit to their natural habitats. Most of these gorillas live in Virunga National Park(DRC), Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (Uganda), and Volcanoes National Park (Rwanda), which alone shelters about a third of these extraordinary primates.
Mountain gorillas are a vulnerable species, long affected by poaching, habitat destruction, and human-borne diseases. Just three decades ago, their numbers were only a quarter of what they are today. In response, the Rwandan government implemented strict conservation measures, limiting access to the park. Only small groups of eight visitors are permitted—after receiving official authorization—to spend just one hour with a gorilla group. The park allows only 80 visitors per day within its 100 square kilometers.
Volcanoes National Park
Before entering the tropical forest, the trek begins in local villages and agricultural fields, set right at the edge of the dense jungle of trees, bushes, and bamboo. Most locals are farmers, cultivating potatoes, pyrethrum (a chrysanthemum-family flower used in insecticides), or tea, and they are remarkably friendly and curious toward msungu, or white-skinned visitors.
The park is home to eleven gorilla families, ten of which are open to tourists. One is reserved exclusively for scientific research. Among the most popular groups is the Sabyinyo family, named after Mount Sabyinyo, meaning “old man’s teeth.” It’s well known not only because it can be reached after a relatively short hike, but because it is led by the largest silverback in the park, Guhonda, who weighs nearly a quarter of a ton. The group also includes unique members: a bald gorilla, the only female to have birthed more than six offspring, and Gihishamwotsi, the solemn beta male of the group.
At 7 a.m., guides meet at the park headquarters to assign tourist groups to specific gorilla families, based on each group’s physical condition. The hikes vary in duration, from one to over three hours.
Each group is led by a guide, and as the trek begins, locals offer porter services as well as wooden walking sticks for support. At an altitude of 2,500 meters, the trail requires considerable effort as it winds into the dense, humid jungle.
Suddenly, among the thick canopy of trees and bamboo—pierced by soft shafts of light—you encounter the gorillas. The moment evokes an immediate sense of empathy, perhaps because we share 98% of our DNA with them. Though physically imposing—males can weigh up to 250 kilograms—watching their human-like behavior up close is nothing short of awe-inspiring.
During my visit, as I was photographing Gihishamwotsi, the beta male, who was chewing on a root alongside two females, a juvenile, and an infant, I heard our guide Patrick shout: “He’s going to charge!” I lowered my camera and saw the gorilla snap a thick bamboo stalk like a toothpick and run straight toward me. I ducked and covered my head with my arms. Just before reaching me, he veered off and ran past. Aside from a rush of adrenaline, nothing happened—and the experience was extraordinary.
Patrick, who leads all the guides in Rwanda, later told me that in 30 years, there hasn’t been a single accident with gorillas in the park. However, due to their territorial and proud nature, they sometimes feel the urge to assert their dominance. This display of power, he clarified, does not equate to aggression.
Each gorilla family is exceptional in its own way, with unique dynamics and traits. The care provided by the park’s staff is exemplary, and conservation efforts have become a national priority.
