The hypothetical debate about whether one would rather give up cheese or chocolate has always struck me as absurd. Clearly—under no circumstance—would I give up cheese. I know it may sound controversial, but imagine a life without fondue, quesadillas, gratins, pizzas, or lasagna. Even our charcuterie boards would lose their perfect pairing. A life like that hardly seems worth living.
For those who already love cheese—and for those about to fall for it—this is an ode to Pecorino Romano, one of Italy’s most iconic cheeses. Like many ancient cheeses, its story is rooted in tradition, unfolding in the pastoral landscapes of Lazio and Sardinia. Despite today’s soaring global demand, there are still producers determined to safeguard this culinary heritage and preserve the authenticity of a craft refined over more than two millennia.
Ancient Rome: A Cheese of Empire
Pecorino Romano is among the oldest cheeses in Italy. Historical records indicate that it was part of the daily ration given to Roman legionaries, accompanying staples such as bread and farro soup—a nutty ancient grain rich in nutrients. Soldiers received approximately 27 grams per day, valued for its digestibility and the vigor it provided.
Beyond the battlefield, the cheese also held prestige among the upper classes, used as a prized seasoning at banquets. Its ability to age and be stored for extended periods made it a fundamental component of Roman life.
How It’s Made
The name “pecorino” derives from pecora, meaning sheep. Pecorino Romano holds Denominazione di Origine Protetta (D.O.P.) status and is produced exclusively from the milk of sheep grazing in the countryside of Lazio and Sardinia—following methods practiced for over 2,000 years.
Both the production process and the geographical origin are protected to ensure artisanal integrity and preserve quality.
In the farms of Lazio, freshly collected milk is filtered and heated to 68°C for no more than 15 minutes in stainless steel tanks. It is then inoculated with scotta innesto, a culture of indigenous thermophilic lactic bacteria passed down through generations. After coagulation, the curds are separated from the whey and transferred into molds that allow excess liquid to drain gradually, preventing harmful bacterial growth.
The wheels are then salted by hand and aged in underground cellars for five to eight months, depending on whether the cheese is intended for table use or grating. The result is a firm, savory cheese with a sharp, complex profile that reflects centuries of refinement.
Pecorino Romano Today
Like many traditional products, Pecorino Romano has experienced a surge in demand—particularly in the United States—leading to widespread imitations produced beyond Lazio and Sardinia. While similar in name, these versions often lack D.O.P. certification, affecting both authentic producers and consumers who may not realize they are purchasing a substitute rather than the original.
Yet some remain steadfast. Giuseppe Capuani, director of I Buonatavola, one of the farms still producing authentic Pecorino Romano in Lazio, believes that “cheese follows eating habits.” Those who truly value quality, he suggests, will seek out authenticity seals and willingly pay for a gastronomic history spanning more than 2,000 years.
